Day 7 - Monday - 30 November 2015 - Corfu Greece

Upon an 8:30 am arrival we have a panoramic bus tour of the east side of Corfu, the second largest of Greece's Ionian Islands.   A stop in Kanoni provides a view  of the runway of the airport (of which they are very proud), Pontikonisi Island (also known as Mouse Island because of its shape), and the Vlacherna Monastery.  On the way back down to sea level, we pass by a Roman archaeological site and Mon Repos Villa -- the birthplace in 1921 of Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh.  

Phil at Kanoni -- see Mouse Island and Pontikonisi Island.

 After the bus tour -- we begin a walking tour of the old town with Irene, our local guide who points out several buildings in the area including the Old Fortress and  the Palace of St. George and St. Michael built in 1817.  She tells us about the popularity of Cricket on this island -- it was introduced by the British in the 19th Century -- and she points out St. Spyridon Church in the middle of old town.    After the tour we take advantage of the complimentary beverage (and free bathrooms) offered by a café along the promenade.

Patte, Dave and Pat -- taking a cafe break in Corfu.

 Phil, Patte, Dave and I go back to  Saint Spyridon Church -- built in 1580. The church's namesake was a Cyprus Bishop who lived from AD 270-348.  He married, had one daughter, -- his wife died -- he entered  a monastery -- his daughter entered  a convent.   When the Arabs overtook Cyprus in the 7th Century his body was disinterred and taken to Constantinople.  At the time it was noted that St. Spyridon's body was incorrupt meaning there was little,  if any, decomposition.  When, in 1453, Constantinople fell to the Turks his relics were brought  to Corfu by a wealthy Greek monk.  Today -- his remains are in a  silver sarcophagus at the church.  Every Palm Sunday the sarcophagus is taken in a procession for veneration by the faithful.  This guy traveled more after he died than when he was alive.  BTW -- the relic of his right hand is now in Rome -- not sure why.

There is such dedication to this saint that a great number of men on Corfu are named Spyridon -- seems to me that would be confusing but they seem to have figured it out.

Tower of St. Spyridon Church - Corfu

Next for Phil, Patte and I is a visit to the Old Fortress -- we're able to get a senior discount -- 2 Euros each.  

Old Fortress - Corfu

Pat and Phil at entrance to Old Fortress!

Moat of Old Fortress -- see Albania in the distance!

The original design of the Old Fortress  is Byzantine dating to the 6th Century.  Many changes occurred  through the years -- but it was when the Venetians were in charge (1385-1797) that the bastion system of fortification came to the Old Fortress.  When cannons (rather than arrows) became popular in warfare, this system provided better passive resistance and allowed for defensive fire in all directions.      When the British gained control of Corfu (1814 to 1864) several military buildings were added to the Old Fortress.   We pass one of these buildings which has  music coming from it and young students milling about carrying instruments -- we make the assumption that it is a music school. 

 A visit to the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George (tapestry of him slaying the dragon is inside). A walk around the grounds inside this very large ancient place is a nice way to spend time on a beautiful day.  From this promontory point one can see in all directions.   We have a very clear  view of Saranda, Albania - a popular resort town across the Ionian Sea..

Patte decides to stay in town -- I take the shuttle to the ship (Phil left when we approached St. George's -- he didn't need to see "ABC" -- another beautiful church).   

This island is different from the other Greek Islands we have visited -- it has been heavily influenced by past rulers particularly the Venetians and the British.   It is truly a lovely spot.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

Day 6 - Sunday - 29 November - Dubrovnik, Croatia

Patte, Phil and I are on the bus to tour Dubrovnick by 8:30 am.  Phil and I forgot our voice boxes so will have to stay close to our guide, Vlaho -- he tells us his name translates to Blaise --- the patron saint and protector of Dubrovnik.

Jester a the Entrance to Walled City

 Blaise is very proud of being from Dubrovnik -- and being a guide.  He tells us that tourism is  the main industry in Dubrovnik since 1897 with the building of the Imperial Hotel (now a Hilton).  This hotel is well located to explore the old walled city and a short walk to Banje Beach.  The city has always been involved in trading becoming quite wealthy in the 15th and 16th centuries.  Dubrovnik was also savy in politics -- knowing the importance of being neutral when conflicts arose so their trading routes were not disrupted.

Phil Finds a Teddy Bear in Dubrovnik!

I'm learning that Dubrovnik has a storied history of governance -- even self-ruling for almost 500 years  -- until the  early 1800's.    Most recently from 1918 to 1991 -- the city was part of Yugoslavia  -- with that break up they became part of Croatia.

 As we enter the walled city -- a Jester greets us selling trinkets for charity.  The city is compact with small alleys and streets  looking very much like other medieval cities -- although Dubrovnik is very well preserved.

Boats at the Ready in Dubrovnik!

 Blaise walks us around pointing out various oddities in the building walls -- and entertaining us with his witticisms which he enjoys more than anyone else.   We end the tour at the Dominican Monastery Museum which holds paintings and antiquities dating to the middle ages.

I didn't notice the woman climbing when I took the photo ---

 We are left on our own -- Phil goes back to the ship, Patte goes in search of the  Jesuit Church and I wander around the small Christmas Market.   I come across a Church where the 11:00 Mass is about to begin so I go in, find a seat and try to pay attention.  After hearing the sermon in Croatian -- I've had enough. 

Off I go to get the shuttle back to the ship for lunch -- but not before seeking out a small area which Blaise told us about where the views are spectacular. 

What a Pretty View!

 After lunch Phil and I peruse the neighborhood near the ship including the grocery store -- where we spend the last of the little Croatian money we have left.

Tonight dinner is in Manfredi's on the ship -- which is always excellent. We turn our clocks ahead one hour tonight.

Another good day on the Viking Star.

Thanks for Reading,

Pat

Day 5 - Saturday - 28 November 2015 - Split, Croatia on Viking Star

Breakfast in the World Café on Deck 7 is terrific -- lots of choices and all quite good.   We now have the stamina we need for a walking tour of Split, the second largest city in Croatia with a population of 174,000 people.

Split became famous when the Roman Emperor, Diocletian, built a palace at the turn of the 4th Century as a retirement home.    It is really a walled city  measuring eight acres.  The front section by  the sea was for the Emperor -- the back section was a military garrison.   Diocletian was the first Roman Emperor to voluntarily abdicate in 305 after 21 years as Emperor - moving to his  Split palace where he enjoyed tending his vegetable garden until his death in AD 311 at age 66.

Diocletian is known for his persecution of early Christians -- beheading many including St. Gennaro who you will meet in Naples.

Diocletian's Palace - front section on the sea for the Emperor.

After Diocletian's death, the palace was used as a retreat by Roman Rulers before being left to ruin.  When nearby Salona was invaded and destroyed in the 7th Century -- many refugees settled in the remains of the palace --- where their descendants still live today.

People live in this section of the Palace

We enter the palace on the bottom level  --  now a  contemporary art museum with  some unusual exhibits.   
We travel through the streets and alleys of the palace passing several structures including the Temple of Jupiter.  Jupiter was the name of Diocletian's father and also the highest Roman god (of the Sky and of Thunder).   This temple was turned into St. John's Baptistry in the 12th Century -- with the installation of a large baptismal font allowing total body immersion. 

Temple of Jupiter - now St. John's Baptistry

Pat in front of Cathedral of St. Domnius.

The Cathedral of St. Domnius, consecrated at the turn of the 7th Century, is the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world that remains in use in its original structure.  The original structure was built in AD 305 as the Mausoleum of Diocletian --  is that justice or what?

A stop at the Ethnographic Museum within the palace walls is next -- an interesting place with lots of traditional clothing, photos, tools, and furniture from days gone by.   Patte and I love this stuff -- it was fun to imagine what life in Split might have been like.

In the courtyard of the Museum we are treated to a performance by an A Capella quintet singing traditional Croatian music -- known as Klapa Mor.  We decided not to buy the CD's they were selling.  

We end our tour with a walk through the marketplace -- noticing so many wonderful faces in the crowd and behind the counters. 

Saturday Marketplace in Split, Croatia

After lunch, Patte, Phil and I walk in another direction along the tree-lined promenade where the Christmas market is being set up.  Since it is Saturday -- lots of families with small children are out and about in the cafes and along the walkways.

Vendor at the Marketplace -- What a great Face!

Before you know it --  it's time for dinner -- which we have in the World Café on Deck 7.

Thanks for Reading,

Pat

Day 4 - Friday 27 November - Venice on board Viking Star

After breakfast in the World Café on Deck 7, we board the "Bellini", a cruising boat for a tour of the Lagoon surrounding Venice -- a walking tour - then free time.  Statistics I learned today:  Venice has a population of 58,000 -- 180 islands --  48 bridges -- 6 sections -- city is divided by the Grand Canal.    In the Middle Ages,  Venice was a  powerful republic -- as merchants they controlled trading routes worldwide.   When  Columbus discovered America  -- trading routes were  altered and so was the power -- Venice's decline began.

Phil on the Bellini for the Lagoon Tour.

In Venice -- construction of new structures is not allowed --- only renovation of existing buildings.  An application to renovate must be submitted --- it might take up to ten years to have a response  --  then the answer will likely be "No".   This is called Monument Control.

Knee High Boots for Sale on St. Mark's Square

 The lagoon tour is wonderful --- the guide points out various landmarks including  Lido Island where the Venice Film Festival takes place.   Castello is where we turn around to dock at St. Mark's Square for our walking tour.   The flooding is worse today than it was yesterday but nobody seems concerned --  once high tide occurs (10:40 am today) the water will begin to recede.   The crowds today are dense -- and walking on the elevated pathways doesn't help.   We are happy to have already seen much of what the walking tour is all about.

Phil, Patte and I break off from the tour to run back to the Palace Bonvecchiati to retrieve some things Patte left in her room.    We must go a bit out of the way due to the flooding -- and when we return we realize we will not be able to enter St. Marks's since the line is way too long and we'll miss the boat back to the Viking Star.

Unusual House in one of the Squares of Venice!

On the way back to the meeting point -- we get lost in the alleys and streets as we try to avoid St. Marks Square  ---  we see lots of lovely squares with unique structures.   A couple of times we need to regroup to be sure we are headed In the right direction.   But as Phil would say, "We didn't get lost -- we just went back another way."   

Lunch on the Viking Star is very good with lots of healthy selections.  We have the required life boat drill at 3:00 pm.  Sail-Away is at 4:00 pm -- Patte and I position ourselves on the back deck but it is cold and nothing is happening so we go to the "Winter Garden" for tea.  They have an array of sweets as well as  small sandwiches including watercress -- my favorite.  Eventually Phil and Dave find us -- we can see the sail away just fine from inside.

Watching Venice recede into the background at dusk is magical.

Entrance to the Grand Canal - Venice -- at Dusk!

 Dinner in "The Restaurant" is good but service is slow.  The couple who sat next to us boarded the ship in Istanbul so will be on for 22 days when we reach Barcelona.  They are loving the cruise and this beautiful ship.

Phil, Patte and I attend the Captain's Reception where he introduces his staff and we all have a champagne toast to a wonderful cruise.

Back to the room by 10:00 pm.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

Day 3 - Thursday - 26 November - Venice Italy on Viking Star

Happy Thanksgiving!   Patte, Phil and I have breakfast and store our luggage at the front desk, since we will board the Viking Star later today.  This morning there is more to see in Venice.  Dave is not feeling well so he's staying at the hotel.

Water in St. Mark's Square -- Notice the high pathways.

Water spilling from St. Marks Basin on to the Square.

As we enter St. Mark's Square -- we are amazed at the water level -- almost the entire square is underwater.  High pathways have been installed so people can walk around ----- vendors sell knee-high plastic boots for 10 euros a pair.  As we look out towards the San Marco Canal (St. Mark's Basin) there are two eye-catching columns by the waterfront.  One is topped by a lion, the symbol of Venice and of St. Mark, the patron saint.  The second is St. Theodore (first patron of Venice) along with his dragon.   There was a third column but it fell off its barge into the drink before it could be placed with the others.   The columns are striking today but in times past convicts were executed between them -- some Venetians avoid walking between these columns.

 Moving on to the Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale) which was the residence of the Doge (elected ruler) and administrative center of the Venetian Republic  -- construction of the current building started in 1340 with numerous changes over the centuries. In 1923 this building became a museum.     

Pat and Patte at the Grand Staircase - Doge's Palace.

The Doge lived on the lower flours with the upper levels housing administrative chambers.  Large magnificent paintings cover the ceilings and walls of the palace   including "Paradise" by Tintoretto -- the largest oil painting in the world measuring 23 by 75 feet -- completed in the late 1500's.

An example of the art work which covered ceilings and walls of the Doge's Palace --

The Prigioni Nuove (new prison) built in 1640 is separated from the palace on the east side by a narrow canal and an enclosed bridge:   the "Bridge of Sighs" which earned its name in the 19th century from "Childe Harold's Pilgrimmage" by Lord Byron.

View a Prisoner would have of St. Mark's Basin as he/she crossed the Bridge of Sighs.

Our self-guided tour complete -- it is on to "Harry's Bar" -- the home of the Bellini cocktail. The story goes:   Giuseppe Cipriani  opened Harry's in 1931 after Harry Pickering, a young Bostonian, repaid a loan from Cipriani of 10,000 lire with 50,000 lire giving instruction to open a bar named "Harry's".    Phil and Patte have a Bellini (Prosecco and peach nectar) -- I opt for a cappuccino.   The bar is small and feels like one has been transported to the 1940's.    It is most definitely a tourist trap -- the Bellinis cost 16,50 Euros each.   The cappuccino was delicious (although it could have been hotter) -- it seemed like a bargain at  6,00 Euros.

Phil and Patte enjoying a Bellini at Harry's Bar in Venice!

After our refreshment -- we move in the direction of the hotel by way of the Gritti Palace -- which dates back to 1475 when Andrea Gritti, Doge of Venice, commissioned it.   It was the official residence of the Gritti Family and later of the Vatican ambassadors to Venice.   It is now a fancy hotel.  When we arrive -- the palace is being decorated for Christmas and the public areas are closed.

Back at the Palace Bonvecchiati -- we find Dave sitting in the lobby .  After gathering  our belongings we walk along Calle dei Fabbri.  The plan is to board  the #1 vaporetto at the Rialto Bridge  to Plaza Roma to the People Mover and,  hopefully,  to the Viking Star.

The  ride down the grand canal to Plaza Roma is wonderful --  things are going well -- we follow signs to the People Mover --- see a light rail waiting -- get on -- and something just doesn't seem right.    Looking around  at the situation an uneasy feeling comes over me.   I think we should get off -- my compatriots agree.   The response from the proprietor of the newsstand when I inquire about the location of the People Mover confirms my uneasiness.   She points in the opposite direction of the vehicle we were on.    What a close call  -- had we stayed on the light rail we would have ended up on the Italian mainland.   

St. Mark's Square from the Ship -- Doge's Palace on right with prison just to right of small bridge.

We find the "People Mover" -- buy our tickets -- get on the train -- and off we go -- we can see the ship which is most comforting.  

Our bags are  surrendered for delivery to our cabins -- check -in is speedy -- security is thorough and since it is after 1:00 pm -- our cabins are ready.    

This ship is gorgeous -- brand new -- and a different set-up than other vessels.   Viking has married the best of the river cruises with the best of the ocean cruises. After a tour of the ship to get our bearings -- our luggage has arrived so we unpack. Dinner reservations are at 6:30 pm in Manfredi's -- the Italian restaurant on board.  The food and the service is superb.    It has been a good  long day but we are  all exhausted -- we have earned our right to go to bed early.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day 2 - Wednesday - 25 November - Venice, Italy

Phil and I awake at  7:18 am -- we are supposed to meet Patte and Dave for breakfast at 7:30 am.  I think we overslept because in the course of the turn-down service, the shutters are closed on the outside of the windows so the room is always dark.

We arrive  at the Terrazzo Restaurant about 10 minutes late for a very good breakfast except they cannot seem to get the coffee hot enough -- perhaps this is a worldwide problem.

Off we go to Murano Island -- where there are a number of factories and workshops making the famous Murano Glass.  The 4.2 ACTV vaporetto is the boat to take at a cost of 7.50 Euros each.  Boat ride is 40 minutes to the first stop on the island.  Rather than follow the crowd to the left where someone has said there is a factory  with a glass blowing demonstration,  we walk straight down the main drag to get our bearings.  We pass shops of all types from very expensive to very touristy.

This is a nice island -- which I imagine is packed with people during the summer,  As we meander we pass through a large plaza towards the water -- turning a corner we see a sign advertising a glass blowing demonstration.  We inquire about the cost and find it is 2 Euros --- good enough for us.

The demo is terrific -- the heat of the ovens and the red-hot glass is remarkable --these glassblowers don't wear gloves and are so casual as they whip the glass at the end of long poles in and out of the ovens.    It is fun to guess at what the master is making -- in our case  a small horse up on it's hind legs.

Glassblowers Working Their Craft!

After the demo we've had enough of Murano and opt to go back to Venice.   Just as we get off the vaporetto (at a different stop in Venice) -- we see "Pizzeria Bar Al Cupido" and since it is past noon  -- it looks like a good lunch place  ---- it is.     

We begin our afternoon with a visit to Santa Maria dei Miracoli -- not far from the Rialto Bridge.  This church was built between 1481 and 1489 to house an icon of the Virgin Mary and the Christ Child  purported to perform miracles.  It is an example of early Venetian Renaissance style including the colored marble.  The  church is unusual and a bit austere but lovely as it showcases the original icon on a raised altar.

Patte, Dave and Phil in front of Santa Maria dei Miracoli

The Miraculous Icon from 15th Century.

Next it is off to the Gran Teatro La Fenice (Venice's opera house) -- a spectacular structure which seats 1,126 including 174 boxes on both sides of the theatre.   Patte and Dave read John Berendt's "The City of Falling Angels" so visiting the opera house is a must.    This structure was built in 1792 replacing the San Benedetto Theatre which burned to the ground in 1774.    In 1836 a fire destroyed this building -- rebuilding took one year.    Then in 1996 -- fire again destroyed La Fenice (this time it was arson) --- rebuilding was completed in 2003.  Interestingly enough -- both times fire ravaged this structure,  the lobby was not destroyed.  

The tour is self-guided with voice boxes but no photos allowed -- so we take our time enjoying the atmosphere -- including a practice session going on in the orchestra pit.   There are two entrances to La Fenice:    one from the plaza and the other from a canal (which is now used strictly as a loading dock).

Front Door of La Fenice

Back Door of La Fenice on the Canal -- much prettier but is now a loading dock!

Next on the agenda is a break for coffee in the small bar at our hotel -- where Giuseppe takes good care of us -- even checking all possibilities (unsuccessfully) to get me a gelato.

After a brief rest -- we regroup for dinner.  Our choice is Bistrot de Venise -- directly across the street from our hotel -- highly recommended by Ugo who is on the desk when I inquire about dinner possibilities.

Meals, service and ambiance at Bistrot de Venise are second to none.   After dinner, a stroll down Calle dei Fabbri to a gelato shop for some dessert provides the perfect ending to productive day in Venice.

Phil and Pat with Bridge of Sighs in background.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat