Mediterranean Odyssey

Mediterranean Odyssey

30 November 2015

Day 2 - Wednesday - 25 November - Venice, Italy


Phil and I awake at  7:18 am -- we are supposed to meet Patte and Dave for breakfast at 7:30 am.  I think we overslept because in the course of the turn-down service, the shutters are closed on the outside of the windows so the room is always dark.

We arrive  at the Terrazzo Restaurant about 10 minutes late for a very good breakfast except they cannot seem to get the coffee hot enough -- perhaps this is a worldwide problem.

Off we go to Murano Island -- where there are a number of factories and workshops making the famous Murano Glass.  The 4.2 ACTV vaporetto is the boat to take at a cost of 7.50 Euros each.  Boat ride is 40 minutes to the first stop on the island.  Rather than follow the crowd to the left where someone has said there is a factory  with a glass blowing demonstration,  we walk straight down the main drag to get our bearings.  We pass shops of all types from very expensive to very touristy.

This is a nice island -- which I imagine is packed with people during the summer,  As we meander we pass through a large plaza towards the water -- turning a corner we see a sign advertising a glass blowing demonstration.  We inquire about the cost and find it is 2 Euros --- good enough for us.

The demo is terrific -- the heat of the ovens and the red-hot glass is remarkable --these glassblowers don't wear gloves and are so casual as they whip the glass at the end of long poles in and out of the ovens.    It is fun to guess at what the master is making -- in our case  a small horse up on it's hind legs.


Glassblowers Working Their Craft!
After the demo we've had enough of Murano and opt to go back to Venice.   Just as we get off the vaporetto (at a different stop in Venice) -- we see "Pizzeria Bar Al Cupido" and since it is past noon  -- it looks like a good lunch place  ---- it is.     

We begin our afternoon with a visit to Santa Maria dei Miracoli -- not far from the Rialto Bridge.  This church was built between 1481 and 1489 to house an icon of the Virgin Mary and the Christ Child  purported to perform miracles.  It is an example of early Venetian Renaissance style including the colored marble.  The  church is unusual and a bit austere but lovely as it showcases the original icon on a raised altar.

Patte, Dave and Phil in front of Santa Maria dei Miracoli
The Miraculous Icon from 15th Century.



































Next it is off to the Gran Teatro La Fenice (Venice's opera house) -- a spectacular structure which seats 1,126 including 174 boxes on both sides of the theatre.   Patte and Dave read John Berendt's "The City of Falling Angels" so visiting the opera house is a must.    This structure was built in 1792 replacing the San Benedetto Theatre which burned to the ground in 1774.    In 1836 a fire destroyed this building -- rebuilding took one year.    Then in 1996 -- fire again destroyed La Fenice (this time it was arson) --- rebuilding was completed in 2003.  Interestingly enough -- both times fire ravaged this structure,  the lobby was not destroyed.  

The tour is self-guided with voice boxes but no photos allowed -- so we take our time enjoying the atmosphere -- including a practice session going on in the orchestra pit.   There are two entrances to La Fenice:    one from the plaza and the other from a canal (which is now used strictly as a loading dock).


Front Door of La Fenice

Back Door of La Fenice on the Canal -- much prettier but is now a loading dock!

Next on the agenda is a break for coffee in the small bar at our hotel -- where Giuseppe takes good care of us -- even checking all possibilities (unsuccessfully) to get me a gelato.

After a brief rest -- we regroup for dinner.  Our choice is Bistrot de Venise -- directly across the street from our hotel -- highly recommended by Ugo who is on the desk when I inquire about dinner possibilities.

Meals, service and ambiance at Bistrot de Venise are second to none.   After dinner, a stroll down Calle dei Fabbri to a gelato shop for some dessert provides the perfect ending to productive day in Venice.


Phil and Pat with Bridge of Sighs in background.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat





29 November 2015

Day 1 - Tuesday - 24 November 2015 - Venice, Italy




After two uneventful flights we arrive in Venice about Noon after leaving Boston at 8:00 pm last night.   We had no trouble finding the Aliliguna boat dock for our ferry (Eur 15,00 each) to the Rialto Bridge  -- from there a ten minute walk over flat surface takes us to Palace Bonvecchiati on Calle dei Fabbri.

Dave, Phil and Patte waiting for vaporetto at the airport.
 The hotel is very European -- modern interior with all the amenities:  wifi -- flat screen TV -- beautiful bathroom and a king size bed.   Located on a small canal, it is  walking distance to St. Mark's Square, good restaurants, shopping and several vaporetto stops.  Venice's public transportation consists of water buses or vaporetti  (singular - vaporetto).    After checking in and taking a tour of the hotel, its sister property (Hotel Bonvecchiati), and shared restaurant (La Terrazza) we are on the move to take a look around before having an early dinner and to bed.


Gondola just outside the back door of Palace Bonvecchiati.

The last time I was in Venice was 1969 -- Phil, Patte and Dave have never been, so we are all novices when it comes to figuring out our way but we manage.  I read that the best way to see Venice is to get lost wandering the streets and taking in the fabric of the city.   Well -- we have no trouble getting lost so we take in the fabric of the city -- and find our way back to our "neighborhood" before dark.

Phil standing by one of the many canals in Venice!








We realize we need a plan for the next two days so as we stroll along Calle dei Fabbri -- we come upon Trattoria-Pizzeria da Gioia and are encouraged to come in so we do.   What can I say we are all tired -- we order some wine, pull out maps and plan what we might do for the next couple of days.   We thought we might eat here but decide against it.  We end up at ristorante La Terrazza in our hotel.  They are serving pizza, a drink, and a coffee for 13 Euros.  

It was the right thing to do --- we get three different pizza's -- all are delicious.

We had a good first day -- getting acclimated, getting lost and figuring out a plan.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat